Ralph Lauren is a New York institution, each season he brings to the market a collection full of fashion classics, buy now and wear for years and years to come. Whilst this collection brought about the usual display of crisp white shirts and elegant separates, there was an underlying unexpected vibe running through the collection. The emerging markets and their lure of their spending power is not lost on today’s designers and thus the Chinese inspired art deco theme in Ralph Lauren’s autumn/winter collection. Whilst it marks a shift from the house’s classic style it’s formulation is not without merit; oriental embroidery, emerald green earrings and heady hues of red make for a highly desirable collection.

Marchesa presented the second Great Expectations inspired collection for autumn/winter, and where Prabal Gurung’s Miss Havisham was flirty and fun, Marchesa’s was about opulence and grandeur. All the hallmarks of Marchesa decadence were present with the added element of frayed hems and delicate lace. Not that any of the dresses looked worn rather more delicate in a rather magical way.

Diane Von Furstenberg is a New York Fashion Week institution, with the 70s vibe going strong her collections are popular ones. For autumn/winter American legends were the inspiration and whilst many looks were accessorised with a quirky hat or western style fringing, what was most notable was the darker tone of the collection. Heady colours and bold prints made for a glamorous collection.

Prabal Gurung has had a great couple of weeks with high profile red carpet coverage, he can add this collection to his success. Whilst a Miss Havisham (Great Expectations) inspired collection is undoubtedly ambitious it was pulled off in audacious style.

New York Fashion Week came to a close this week following a packed week of shows with the fash-pack heading east to London town, here is the essential New York Fashion week roundup.

Marc Jacobs is arguably the hottest show on schedule, I wasn’t a huge fan of the 70s inspired last collection but it was more than compensated for in Marc Jacob’s offering for autumn/winter 2011. In stark contrast to the airy fairy floatiness of spring this collection’s silhouette has gone svelte. Whilst the waistlines may have been tight the strictness of the looks was emphasised with the abundance of latex and leather. Quirky polka dots and pretty lace accents lightened the tone.

Taking in the Monique Lhuillier collection is the equivalent of taking a fashion valium, there is something very soothing about seeing a parade of fairytale dresses each one more exquisite than the last. There is a reason that Monique Lhuillier is the go-to label for red carpet dressing and this collection presented 44 looks worthy of any A-lister. Texture was the big story at this show with the use of lace, embroidery, taffeta and tulle for perfect dramatic effect.

Rodarte is always a highlight of fashion week for me, I look forward to seeing what theme the Mulleavy sisters have gone for and am always pleasantly surprised. The inspiration was the American Plains and so floaty gowns, floor-sweeping coats and collar details characterised this collection. Whoever thought Little House on the Prairie could be so chic?

Carolina Herrera has a tried and tested formula that just exudes ladylike chic, these collections appeal to a certain type of lady; I’m talking upper east side society belles. There won’t be an ounce of disappointment for autumn/winter 2011 with hourglass silhouettes characterised by a much simpler almost minimalist approach.

London Fashion Week opened today with the usual hussle and bussle of back to back shows. I attended Paul Costelloe,  Maria Grachvogel, Caroline Charles and Corrie Nielsen this morning. The latter of which was easily the highlight.

American designer and Central St Martins graduate Corrie Nielsen was the winner of last year’s covetted Fashion Fringe award. This was her first solo catwalk production though you’d never know it, the young designer showed creations far more advanced than her beginner years.

Corrie Nielsen’s inspiration for this collection was cited as the Elizabethan era, French Haute Couture from the 1950s and new romance. Corrie worked for Vivienne Westwood for 2 years and her influence is certainly visible in Corrie’s designs. Despite references to Westwood trademarks Corrie’s collection was completely her own. Metallic suits with oversized shoulders, corset based cocktail dresses jazzed up with intricate ruffles and two spectacular finale dresses conjuring images of Queen Elizabeth herself. The applause for Corrie Nielsen’s final walk through and her own bow is testament to the promise she shows as a new young designer.

Elie Saab is a name to anyone in the fashion know that is synonymous with eveningwear more opulent and exquisite than you will find this side of your imagination. The spring 2011 haute couture collection was presented today in Paris with the emblematic Elie Saab assortment of chiffon, lace and embroidery.

Character and fragility were the defining words of this collection and it did indeed provide that. Delicate layers of lace and tulle defined with cinched waists and embellished with ribbons and embroidery. Looks came in powdery spring shades ranging from light lavenders and fresh greens to the more heady mix of reds and blacks.

The discerning Elie Saab couture customer will not be disappointed with this collection offering the usual mix of luxurious craftsmanship with beautifully feminine design.

John Galliano showed his spring haute couture offering for Christian Dior yesterday in Paris. For the Central St Martin’s graduate fond of the outrageous it was a remarkably modest show. What emerged on the runway was a collection that took couture back to basics in the most spectacular fashion.

There was of course nothing basic about Galliano’s creations; elegantly cinched waists, layered tulle skirts and exquisite embroidery all on a backdrop of a seductively shadowy palette. They did however take the audience back to a more glamorous era; it’s difficult to look upon the spectacular ball gowns and not imagine yourself right back in the golden age of couture.

The Spring/Summer 2011 Haute Couture shows kicked off today in Paris with an out of world experience. Armani Prive set the scene for the week taking his adoring audience, including a front row that included Jodie Foster and Sophia Loren to a whole new planet.

Armani Prive showed a cosmic themed collection; sculptural two piece suits and statement gowns complete with crater cutaways and opulent embellishment, all in a celestial palette of pewter, silver and blue hues. The looks were finished off with a satellite dish themed head piece by Philip Treacy. A stunning start to Haute Couture week in Paris.

Now the dust has settled on the fashion week marathon that took place in New York, London, Milan and Paris check out my 5 favourite looks for spring/summer 2011:

Jil Sander wowed in Milan with her easy breezy take on colour blocking.

Lace has been a big look this winter but with a distinctly red lipped vampy theme. For Spring Erdem offers up delicate lace dresses with a much girlier feel.

Say the word fringing and it conjures up images of 1920s fancy dress, not anymore; Versace’s sexy reinvention of the fringed dress in sleek shapes and glamorous colours are set to be a big hit.

I fell in love with Preen’s take on minimalism for autumn/winter,  their winning streak continues with understated chic  in luxury basics for spring.

Finally Victoria Beckham’s designs have always appealed to the dress hoarder in me, her designs for spring with new shapes and bold colours make a covetable collection.

The global fashion fest that is fashion week in New York, London, Milan and Paris is now over (weary editors breath a sigh of relief). If you followed the shows you’ll have a good idea of what’s in store for spring/summer 2011 if not it goes a little something like this:

Where there were delicate nudes and pretty pastels last spring, this year it’s all about the colour, think orange, yellows and purples and colour block to your hearts content, mix in abit of animal print if you’re feeling really brave. Shape wise two main trends stand out; keep it clean and simple a la Celine (you may already be doing this with your winter wardrobe) or go glam with a Studio 54 seventies vibe; halternecks, wide-leg trousers and floor skimming elegance.

FASHION WEEK FAVES:

I loved the retro disco theme and bold colours over at Marc Jacobs in New York where there was no avoiding the stir Victoria Beckham’s dresses were causing. In London I fell for Erdem’s feminine lace dresses and Emilio De La Morena’s sharp shapes. In Milan it was all about Dolce and Gabbana whose white wash of Sicilian lace is going to be a big hit, special mention to Jil Sander whose colour-fest and peplums go straight on fashionista’s shopping list.  Finally in Paris Ungaro won the fashion world over with its opulent take on girly glamour and Stella McCartney bought a little bit of sexiness into Spring with her silk slit dresses.

FASHION WEEK FAILS:

Raised eyebrows went to Alexander Wang in New York whose construction theme collection passed the tipping point from genius to bizarre. In London the eagerly anticipated Burberry collection’s leather heavy designs bought very little to the fashion plate. Kane’s plaid designs for Versus’ spring collection left us a little disappointed following falls fab offerings. Finally Louis Vuitton’s lurex, fringed, spangly designs bordered on distasteful.